Course 07 · Scissors: An Introduction · Lesson 6 of 12
How do you trim around ears safely?
Trim around ears only in small, visible amounts, with the ear supported and the blades always in view.
Trimming around ears is delicate work, because ear skin is thin, the ear moves, and the edge of the ear can fold into the blade path without warning. At home, safe ear trimming means tidying only the visible outline and stray hairs, by tiny amounts, with the ear supported gently, the blades always in view, and the dog calm and still. It does not mean shaping the ear, trimming inside the ear, cutting ear hair from the canal, or working on an ear that is sore, red or discharging. Those jobs need a groomer or a vet, and ear cleaning itself is covered in the ears course, with its own stop rules.
Why are ears a high risk area for scissors?
Ears combine thin skin, a curved edge, movement and sensitivity. A dog can flick, shake or turn its head in a fraction of a second, moving the ear edge into scissors that were safely placed a moment before. The ear flap has little padding, so a nick bleeds readily and can be painful, and ear edges are hard to hold flat without folding them. Hair around the ear also grows in different directions, with longer hair on the back of the ear, shorter hair on the front, and tufts at the base that trap dirt and mats. A beginner who tries to make the ear neat in one session can easily cut a notch in the edge, trim too much from the front, or cut into a fold. Small, slow, visible work is the only safe approach at home.
How do you support an ear for trimming?
Hold the ear flap gently between the fingers of your safety hand, supporting it flat without pulling, twisting or folding it. Let the ear rest in its natural position as far as possible, and support the edge you are trimming so it stays smooth and visible. Keep your safety fingers between the skin and the scissors, and keep the scissors parallel to the ear surface, not pointing into it. Work in good light, with the dog settled, and with a helper to steady the head calmly if needed. The helper should support, not restrain, and should stop if the dog objects. If the ear will not stay still, or the dog shakes its head repeatedly, stop. An ear that cannot be held still and flat is not an ear to trim in that session.
What should you trim, and what should you leave?
Trim only stray, straggling hairs that stick out beyond the natural outline of the ear, and only by tiny amounts. Comb the ear hair into its natural fall, identify the longest stragglers, cut the ends, comb again and check. Leave the ear edge itself alone unless a groomer has shown you how to tidy it, leave the hair inside the ear and at the entrance to the canal alone, and leave any hair that is matted at the base of the ear for a groomer assessment. Do not trim ear hair to make the ear look smaller, rounder or more shaped, because shaping an ear is a breed and scissor skill that needs hands-on teaching. A tidy outline that keeps the natural shape of the ear is the right home aim, and it grows out well even if a few hairs remain.
How do you manage mats and tufts at the ear base?
Mats behind and under the ear are common, because the collar, harness and head movement rub hair together in that spot. Do not cut a mat out with scissors. Scissors slid under a mat can easily cut the skin pulled up into it, and the base of the ear is a fold where skin is easily caught. If a mat is small, loose and brushes out easily, brush it out before any trimming. If it is tight, close to the skin, or the skin underneath is red or sore, leave it alone and ask a groomer for advice. A groomer can assess whether the mat can be split, brushed or clipped safely, with proper handling and tools, and can check the skin underneath. Cutting a mat is never a home scissor job, however tempting it looks.
What checks should you make during ear trimming?
Pause often and use this checklist:
- Ear is supported flat, without pulling or folding, and the dog is calm.
- Blades are in view, parallel to the ear, with safety fingers guarding the skin.
- Only tiny amounts are cut, from straggling ends, with combing between cuts.
- Both ears are compared often, so one ear does not become noticeably shorter.
- Skin is checked for redness, soreness or nicks after every few cuts.
- You stop at the first head shake, flinch or attempt to move away.
If any check fails, close the scissors, settle the dog, and decide whether to continue later or to leave the ears for a groomer. A pause costs nothing, while a nick to an ear edge costs comfort and healing time.
Stop and get help: when is ear trimming a vet or groomer job?
Ear trimming is a vet or groomer job when the ear is red, swollen, smelly, discharging, painful, or the dog shakes its head constantly, because those signs need assessment, not tidying. It is a groomer job when the ear needs shaping, when mats are tight at the base, when hair needs attention at the canal entrance, or when the dog will not stay still. Never insert scissors, cotton buds or any object deep into the ear canal, and never try to clean or trim inside the canal at home beyond the outer ear guidance in the ears course. If bleeding occurs, apply gentle pressure with clean gauze, keep the dog calm, and seek veterinary advice promptly if bleeding will not stop or the cut looks deep. Leave ears neat, natural and untouched where you are unsure, and let a professional handle the rest.
Further reading
- American Kennel Club: grooming guidance
- Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals: dog care guidance