Course 03 · Brushing and Combing · Lesson 6 of 12
What are tangle traps, and where do mats start?
Tangle traps are friction points where hair rubs, such as behind ears, under collars, armpits, chest, groin and legs, and mats start there when tangles are left and tighten against the skin.
Tangle traps are the friction points where hair rubs against hair, skin, collars, harnesses, bedding and the dog own movement, and mats start there when a small tangle is left and tightens against the skin. The main traps are behind the ears, under the collar and harness, in the armpits, on the chest, in the groin, between the legs, and at the tail base. A tangle begins as a few hairs caught together, and if it is not brushed out, more hairs join it, moisture and movement tighten it, and it becomes a mat that pulls on skin and hides skin problems. Knowing where traps are, and checking them first in every session, prevents most mats before they form. A mat is not a failure of care on a single day, but a sign that a trap was missed repeatedly.
Why do friction points tangle first?
Friction points tangle first because movement rubs hairs together, pressure from collars and harnesses compresses the coat, and moisture from rain, sweat and lying on damp bedding helps hairs cling. Behind the ears, the hair is fine and the ears move constantly. Under a collar, the coat is compressed and rubbed with every head movement. In the armpits and groin, legs move against the body and the skin is thin and warm. On the chest, the coat rubs against bedding and the dog own legs. In each case, the combination of movement, pressure and moisture creates the ideal condition for tangling. Checking these points first, in every session, catches tangles when they are small and easy to work out gently.
How does a tangle become a mat?
A tangle becomes a mat through time, moisture and neglect. A few caught hairs attract more hairs, the mass tightens as the dog moves, and dampness from baths, rain or lying on wet ground helps it felt. A mat that is brushed over, rather than worked out, can tighten further, since the brush pushes the mass closer to the skin. A mat that is left for weeks can become dense, pull painfully on skin, trap moisture and odour, and hide sores, parasites and skin irritation beneath it. Mats close to skin are particularly dangerous, because skin can be pulled into the mat and nicked if scissors are used to cut it out. That is why tight mats are a groomer job, not a home job, and why early detection matters so much.
How do you check tangle traps?
Check tangle traps by parting the coat with fingers and feeling for small knots, using a comb to test whether it passes through each area. The check should be gentle, with the coat held above the area to protect skin, and it should happen before general brushing, so traps are not brushed over. A small tangle that releases with gentle finger work and a wide-toothed comb can be dealt with at home, provided the dog is calm and the skin is healthy. A tangle that will not release, that is tight to the skin, or that causes pain should be left for a groomer. Note which traps tangle repeatedly, and increase brushing frequency for those areas, or check harness and collar fit, since a poorly fitting harness can create a new trap.
How do you prevent mats between sessions?
Prevention is regular, targeted brushing, prompt removal of debris, and keeping the coat dry and clean. Brush friction points every few days, even if a full brush is less frequent, and check them after walks, swims and wet weather. Remove burrs, seeds and mud promptly, and towel dry a damp coat before it dries tangled. Check collar and harness fit, and remove collars when the dog is resting at home if the coat tangles beneath them. Keep bedding clean and free of fibres that catch in the coat. If a dog wears clothing in cold weather, check the coat beneath it regularly, since clothing creates a new friction trap. Prevention is less work than dematting, and it is kinder to the dog.
What does a workable checklist look like?
- Check traps first: ears, collar, harness, armpits, chest, groin, legs, tail base. 2. Part coat, feel for knots, comb test each area. 3. Work small tangles gently, leave tight mats for a groomer. 4. Brush traps every few days, after walks and wet weather. 5. Check harness and collar fit, remove debris promptly.
When should you stop and get help?
Stop and get groomer help for any mat that is tight to the skin, large, painful or covering a sensitive area. Get vet help for skin under a mat that is red, sore, broken or smelly, for pain, bleeding or distress. Do not cut out a mat with scissors close to skin, do not use a blade dematting tool without hands-on training, and do not force a brush or comb through a mat. A mat that pulls on skin needs professional removal in person, with the right tools and handling, and attempting it at home risks injury and fear.
Tangle traps are predictable, and the owner who checks them first, every time, will rarely meet a mat that has had time to become a problem.
Further reading
- American Kennel Club, grooming guidance
- RSPCA, pet care guidance
- PDSA, dog care guidance