Course 11 · Face, Eyes and Paws · Lesson 5 of 12

How do you check and trim paw pads and the hair between them?

Published 29 October 2026 · Updated 29 October 2026 · About 6 minutes · General information only. This lesson does not diagnose or treat any condition.

Check paw pads by looking at each pad and the skin between the toes in good light, feeling for heat, swelling, cuts or stuck debris, and trim only hair that overhangs the pads or packs between the toes, using blunt tipped scissors with the paw held steady. Hair between the toes can mat, collect mud and grit, and make the dog slip on smooth floors, so keeping it level with the pads helps grip and hygiene. Never cut into the pad, never trim tight matted hair against skin, and stop if the dog pulls the paw away repeatedly.

What should a healthy paw pad check include?

A paw check is quick when it is routine. Look at the main pad and the smaller toe pads for cracks, cuts, peeling, blisters or worn patches. Look between the toes for redness, swelling, hair matted into clumps, grass seeds, thorns, grit or sticky debris. Feel the pads gently for heat or tenderness, and check the nails at the same time for cracks or overgrowth. Compare paws: one paw that is hotter, more swollen or more tender than the others deserves closer attention. Check after walks on rough ground, hot pavements, ice, grit or muddy paths, and check before grooming so debris is not worked deeper into the coat. Keep a mental baseline for the dog, because pads vary. Some dogs have rough, thick pads, others have smoother pads, and either can be normal for that dog. Change from baseline, not roughness alone, is the useful signal. Record anything unusual in a few words, with the date and which paw, so a pattern over days is visible.

How do you hold a paw safely for checking and trimming?

Paw handling needs patience, because many dogs dislike having feet held. Let the dog lie or sit comfortably on a non slip surface, and start with a brief touch and reward before lifting the paw. Lift the paw gently, supporting the leg at a natural angle, never pulling the leg sideways or holding it high. Cup the paw in one hand with the pads facing up, keeping fingers away from the scissor path. A helper can steady the dog and offer treats while the owner works, which keeps both hands free for comb and scissors. Work on one paw, pause, and let the dog put the paw down and shake off before the next one. If the dog is tense, panting heavily, growling or snapping, stop. Paw work that becomes a wrestling match teaches the dog to resist next time, and a frightened dog with scissors nearby is unsafe. Short sessions over several days teach more than one long session, and the hands on help lesson in this course covers dogs that will not accept paw handling.

How do you trim the hair between the toes?

Trim only when hair clearly overhangs the pads, sticks out between the toes, or packs with debris. First comb the hair downward over the pads so its true length is visible. Use blunt tipped scissors, hold the paw steady, and trim the hair level with the pads, a little at a time, with scissor tips pointing away from skin. Do not push scissors between the toes or cut hair that is pulled tight. For hair growing upward between the toes on the top of the paw, comb it up, trim only the overlong tips, and check that the toes can still spread naturally. After trimming, comb again and check the pads are visible and the paw sits flat. If hair is matted between the toes, do not cut into the mat. Use the matting course approach or refer to a groomer, because skin between toes is thin and folds easily. Trimming is a tidy, not a shaping cut, and leaving slightly too much hair is safer than cutting too close.

How often should paw pads and toe hair be checked?

Check paws after every walk in rough, hot, icy or muddy conditions, and at least weekly as part of grooming for most dogs. Trim toe hair when it overhangs the pads or starts to pack, which may be every two to four weeks for long coated dogs and far less often for short coated dogs. Dogs that walk mainly on grass and soft ground may need less frequent trimming than dogs that walk on pavements and collect grit. In winter, check more often for salt, grit and ice balls between the toes, and rinse paws with lukewarm water after walks where salt has been spread, drying thoroughly afterwards. In summer, check for hot pavement burns after walks and for grass seeds, which are covered in lesson 10. Keep the routine predictable: same order of paws, same praise, same finish, so the dog learns the pattern and relaxes sooner each time.

When should you stop and get help?

Stop trimming and contact a vet if a pad is cut and bleeding will not stop, if there is swelling, heat, discharge, a bad smell, a wound, a lump, a suspected thorn or seed embedded in the skin, lameness, or pain when the paw is touched. Do not try to dig out an embedded object, do not apply antiseptic deep into a wound, and do not bandage tightly at home without advice. Apply gentle pressure with a clean cloth for bleeding, keep the dog calm, and seek veterinary advice promptly. Styptic powder, which is covered in the nail course, is for minor nail bleeding, not for pad wounds. Refer matted toe hair, overgrown nails that curl, or a dog that will not allow paw handling to a groomer with hands on experience. A calm paw check after walks, plus a conservative trim when hair overhangs the pads, keeps grip, hygiene and early warning in one short routine.

Level toe hair, visible pads and a quick check after walks give the dog better grip and give the owner an early view of cuts, seeds and swelling before they become bigger problems.

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