Course 08 · Blades, Guards and Tool Care · Lesson 5 of 12

How do you clean a blade during and after grooming?

Published 29 October 2026 · Updated 29 October 2026 · About 5 minutes · General information only. This lesson does not diagnose or treat any condition.

Brush hair from the blade often during grooming, and clean, dry and oil it after every session.

Clean a blade during grooming by brushing packed hair from the teeth and guard often, and after grooming by removing the blade, brushing it thoroughly, wiping it clean, drying it fully and oiling it lightly as the maker directs. Hair packed between the teeth lifts the blade, changes the cutting length, causes tracks and heats the blade, while hair left after a session hardens, invites rust and dulls the edge. Cleaning is therefore part of clipping, not a chore to do later, and a blade cleaned often cuts more evenly, runs cooler and lasts longer than a blade cleaned only when it stops working.

Why does hair build up so quickly?

Hair builds up because the blade cuts continuously and the teeth guide cut hair into the spaces between the blades, under the guard and around the hinge. Fine undercoat packs tightly, curly coat springs into gaps, and greasy or damp coat sticks rather than falling away. A guard adds another space where hair collects, between guard and blade, and that packed hair can lift the guard and change the length mid pass. The build up is invisible at first, then it shows as tracks, dragging, heat and a change in sound. By the time the clipper sounds strained, the blade is already badly clogged. Frequent, light cleaning prevents the build up reaching that point, and it takes seconds, while a badly clogged blade takes much longer to clean and may need a full strip down.

How do you clean during a session?

During a session, switch the clipper off, or hold it safely away from the dog, and brush hair from the blade teeth and guard with the small brush supplied, brushing away from your fingers and away from the dog face. Tap the guard gently to dislodge packed hair, and check between the blade teeth with the brush, not with your fingers. Remove the guard if hair is packed underneath it, clean both guard and blade, refit the guard firmly, and check the fit before you continue. Clean after every section, or whenever you pause to check heat or brush out the coat, so cleaning becomes part of the rhythm. Do not blow hair from the blade with your mouth, because moisture and breath can carry debris towards the clipper, and do not use a sharp object to pick hair from the teeth, because it can bend or nick the edge.

How do you clean after a session?

After a session, switch off and make the clipper safe, remove the guard and the blade as the maker directs, and brush all hair from the blade, the guard, the hinge and the clipper body. Wipe the blade with a dry cloth, and if the maker allows a blade wash or cleaning spray, use it exactly as directed, away from the dog, and dry the blade fully afterwards. Never soak a blade, never run a clipper body under water, and never use household cleaners unless the maker specifically allows them. Check the teeth for damage, check the guard for cracks or bent teeth, and oil the blade lightly before storage, as Lesson 6 explains. Store the blade in its case or cover, and store the clipper in a dry place, so the next session starts with a clean, ready tool.

What about blade wash, sprays and disinfectants?

Blade wash, coolant sprays and disinfectants are useful only when they suit your blade and clipper, and when they are used as the maker directs. A blade wash can dissolve grease and packed residue, but it must be followed by thorough drying and oiling, or it will invite rust. A coolant spray can help a hot blade, but it does not replace cooling time, cleaning or oiling, and it must not be sprayed near the dog face or eyes. A disinfectant may be needed if a blade has contacted broken skin, but it must be a product suited to clipper blades, used as directed, and followed by cleaning and oiling. Read the label, check compatibility with your system, and do not mix products. If you are unsure, clean with a brush and a dry cloth, dry fully and oil lightly, which is safe for most blades and is better than a product used wrongly.

Use this cleaning checklist for every session:

Brush blade and guard during the session, after every section.
Remove guard and blade after the session, with the clipper safe.
Brush all hair from teeth, hinge, guard and clipper body.
Wipe, dry fully, check teeth and guard for damage.
Oil lightly as directed, wipe excess, and store in a case.
Note any dullness, damage or heat problem for attention before the next session.

What can cleaning not fix?

Cleaning cannot sharpen a dull blade, repair bent teeth, fix a loose latch or remove rust that has pitted the edge. If a blade still drags, pulls or leaves tracks after thorough cleaning and oiling, it is dull or damaged and needs professional sharpening or replacement, as Lesson 8 explains. Do not keep cleaning a dull blade in the hope that it will improve, and do not increase pressure to compensate, because pressure adds heat and risk. Cleaning keeps a good blade good, and it reveals a bad blade early, so it can be dealt with before it harms a coat or a dog. Make cleaning a habit, and let it be the check that tells you when a blade needs more than cleaning.