Course 03 · Brushing and Combing · Lesson 1 of 12
Which brush and comb suit which coat?
Brush and comb choice follows coat type: slicker and comb for double, curly and long coats, bristle or rubber tools for short coats, pin brush for silky coats, and a comb check for every coat.
Brush and comb choice follows coat type, because a tool that works well on one coat can be too harsh, too soft or simply ineffective on another. A slicker brush suits many double, curly and long coats, a bristle brush suits short and smooth coats, a pin brush suits long, silky coats, and a rubber curry or grooming mitt suits short coats and shedding. A metal comb with wide and narrow teeth suits almost every coat as a checking tool, since it finds tangles a brush glides over. The right tool reaches the coat layer that needs work without scratching skin or pulling hair, and the wrong tool either leaves tangles behind or irritates the dog. Choosing by coat, not by appearance or price, is the first grooming decision.
What does each brush do?
A slicker brush has fine, angled wire pins on a flat or curved pad, and it works through tangles and loose undercoat in medium, long, curly and double coats. A pin brush has longer, rounded pins without the angled bend, and it works gently through long, silky hair with less pulling. A bristle brush has natural or synthetic bristles set close together, and it smooths short coats, spreads oils and removes surface loose hair. A rubber curry or grooming mitt has soft rubber nubs that lift loose hair from short coats and massage the skin, and it is often well tolerated by dogs that dislike wire pins. An undercoat rake has widely spaced teeth that reach dense undercoat, and it should be used gently and only where the coat needs it. Each brush has a job, and using one for every coat is a compromise that serves none well.
What does a comb do that a brush cannot?
A comb checks and finishes what a brush starts. Its teeth pass through the coat in a straight line and snag on tangles, packed undercoat and debris that a brush can glide over. A comb with both wide and narrow teeth is the most versatile, since wide teeth work through thicker sections and narrow teeth check finer areas and finish the coat. The comb should have smooth, rounded teeth, with no sharp edges or rough seams, and it should be used in the direction of growth, holding the coat above the section so skin is not pulled. For curly and long coats, the comb check is the test of whether brushing has succeeded. For short coats, the comb finds burrs, ticks and skin changes. A comb is not a substitute for a brush, but a routine without a comb check is incomplete.
How do you match tool to coat in practice?
Match by trying the most likely tool, watching the dog reaction, and checking the result with a comb. A double coat usually needs a slicker brush and a comb, with an undercoat rake during heavy shedding. A curly coat usually needs a slicker brush and a comb, worked in sections. A long, silky coat usually needs a pin brush and a comb, with gentle pressure. A short coat usually needs a bristle brush or rubber tool, with a comb for checks. A wiry coat usually needs a slicker or firm bristle brush and a comb. A mixed coat may need different tools for different areas, and the owner should be prepared to use two tools in one session. If a tool scratches, pulls or distresses the dog, it is the wrong tool for that coat or that area, whatever the label says.
How do you judge tool quality and care?
Quality shows in smooth pins and teeth, secure handles, no rough seams, and pins that do not bend or break easily. A new brush or comb should be run over the back of a hand to feel for scratching, and a tool that scratches a hand will scratch a dog. Tools should be cleaned after each use, washed when dirty, dried fully, and replaced when pins bend, bristles splay, teeth break or handles loosen. Cheap tools with rough edges can irritate skin and break hair, while a good tool used gently will last and keep the coat in better condition. Keeping tools clean also prevents dirt and oils from being brushed back into a clean coat, and it makes the next session more pleasant for the dog.
How do you decide what to do?
| Coat type | First brush | Comb | | Short and smooth | Bristle brush or rubber mitt | Wide and narrow comb for checks | | Double | Slicker brush | Wide and narrow comb, every section | | Curly | Slicker brush | Wide and narrow comb, every section | | Long and silky | Pin brush | Wide and narrow comb, every section | | Wiry or harsh | Slicker or firm bristle | Wide and narrow comb | | Corded | Specialist advice only | Do not brush out |
What are the limits of this lesson?
Tool choice cannot fix a coat that needs professional help, and it cannot teach the feel, pressure or control that cutting and dematting require. If a coat mats despite the right tools and regular brushing, if brushing causes pain, or if the coat needs shaping or stripping, a groomer should take over. Tools should never be used to force through a tight mat, to strip a coat, or to cut hair, unless the owner has had hands-on training. Stop for pain, bleeding, broken skin or distress, and seek professional help. The right tool used gently, within maintenance limits, is the whole ambition of this lesson.
The right brush and comb, matched to the coat and checked with a comb after every session, will do more for coat health than any large collection of tools used without a plan.
Further reading
- American Kennel Club, grooming guidance
- PDSA, dog care guidance
- RSPCA, pet care guidance